Friday 22 May 2009

Diamonds, pearls and precious stones

My last shoot focused on vintage dresses which really needed toughening up and modernising. Just a few strong, statement pieces of jewellery was all it took. There are so many wonderful designers really pushing the boundaries, but here are just a few that I find particularly exciting.

Solange Azagury-Partridge, who describes her jewellery as 'talismanic ornaments layered with cultural depths...designs poised between pop art and ancient mysticism, irreverent and iconoclastic.' I would think she is best known for this Lips ring, but her other work is also inspirational. She puts this down to the fact she is self taught, so therefore has no preconceptions and can bend almost all the rules to achieve her single vision.

Rachel Galley, a Central Saint Martins graduate in 2004, is another of my favourites. Rachel says she 'draws her inspiration from intricate carved wood, bronze historic treasures, architecture, engineering, natural textures and objects found in our daily lives. She adds her own innovative twist with hidden compartments or containers, enabling the wearer to interact with their jewellery and adds bespoke, handmade fittings and clasps to give each piece her own signature finish.' Her work pleases me in a different way, it's intricate and personal, classic and elegant without failing to excite and remain modern and relevant. My favourite pieces are from the Memento Pillow collection.

Nathalie Melville, another Central Saint Martins 2004 graduate launched commission based fine jewellery brand in 2006. I've been lucky enough to know Nathalie, and to shoot her pieces a number of times. Her work is intricate and delicate, the pieces move with your body and are therefore a joy to wear. Her lace effect work, which is predominant in her collections, is beautiful, but her newest collection, Kensington Gardens, is moving forward from this. I can't just have one favourite so here are 3.
Alexis Bittar's first collections were inspired by 1920's depression era glass and by the Bakelite jewellery of the 1930's to create hand sculpted Lucite jewellery. His work is very sculptural and filled with statement pieces. Maybe each and every one of these designers deserves a full post to themselves in the future.

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