Rags or Riches? charity shops revived

Along with my love of ethical fashion you may have also noticed my love of all things vintage and charity. It all seems to have become all the more relevant for the times we find ourselves in; as Mary Portas states, a financial and environmental crisis like nothing we've seen before. So imagine my joy to find both of my treasures, ethical and charity, at the centre of a shift in shopping and the culture of fashion as a whole. (Admittedly I say all this regardless of the news of endless queues at Gucci on the opening day of the Selfridges summer sale, but I can't ask for everything to change at once now can I!)

Oxfam is in the midst of another overhaul - this one I feel more fitting than the upmarket Westbourne Grove shop of their last attempt - and stylist and designer Mrs Jones, AKA Fee Doran, is taking the reins. She's been customising the stock, turning whatever she can find upside down and inside out, producing pieces to buy in the re-styled Camden shop and online. This cumulated in a shop launch and runway show to preview her collection, followed up with workshops teaching participants to pull outfits together and customise clothes. The final twist is the Festival DIY tent, which kicks off at Glastonbury, to which I lent a helping hand last week.
Not only does this project ask us to give back to charity, an area which means so much to so many, but it also aims to improve us through teaching long lost skills and asking us to embrace our own creativity and talents. Fashion in its rawest form.

Along with Oxfam’s revival, which is well worth a visit, a lot of other charity shops are getting it right. Cast your minds back to one of my earliest posts on the re-launch of the Age Concern shop in Oxford – a stylists dream. And I’ve maybe mentioned before too, the British Red Cross on Old Church Street where there is rail upon rail of once worn designer pieces. Ben de Lisi regularly donates, but due to the affluence of the surrounding area on my last trip I also found Stella McCartney, Ralph Lauren, nearly new Manolo Blahnik, Nicole Farhi, and the list goes on, at bargain prices. You won’t find yourself trawling through crowded piles of used and unloved garments, as insiders - stylist, designers, fashion writers, musicians - have already discovered. The shop looks like any other on the high street.

At the same time Mary Portas Queen of Shops returned to our screens with a new series
Mary Queen of Charity Shops where she aimed to change the image of charity shopping. She’s also opened her very own charity shop in the Westfield Village, supported by Grazia, to raise the profile of charity shopping. Mary's Charity Shop has been a huge success, with celebrity endorsements and donations from numbers of high end designers and celebrities. She spotted this shift from, as she names it, 'greed to giving' which was happening at the same time as this economic meltdown. The it-bag, in-skirt, fashion media led 'must have this' and 'buy that now' attitude seems to have lost its momentum. With style icons shifting to Alexa or Peaches, with their individual style or Michelle Obama, with all her integrity and commitment to raising the profiles of young American designers, there really does seem to be movement towards a shift in our attitudes. In some circles of life many do still have the money to spend on high fashion, this will never change, but even Vogue ran a 'More Dash than Cash' high street editorial in their last edition, filled with customised pieces and unique character. But it's not just the financial question, the giving to charity, or recycling rather than filling landfills, but also a question of individuality and personal style. (An issue I feel pretty strongly about; I discuss in my first column for the City Butler Magazine, and also posted here back in May, Fashion as Identity and Knowing your Fashion Identity.)

So who are these initiatives aimed at? In the most recent Ageless Style issue of Vogue, fashion features writer Sarah Harris discusses the wonders and advantages of going vintage in her article Beyond Retro, but highlights the assumption that vintage isn't for women over 40. Vintage and charity might be fine for the young fashion brave, but does it really have a role in the wardrobes of all ages? Well as always, not every trend is for every figure and the same stands here: find an era that suits, for example 50's can only be flattering for the older or curvier woman. Or costume jewellery, hats and silk scarves are always an individual twist to an outfit, but mean you don't need to take the look head to toe.

So when wearing your nearly-new £60 Manolo Blahniks, and you’ve not only pleased your bank balance, had the act of buying from charity ease your soul, relished in your contribution to ethical fashion issues and the environment, you can also have said something about yourself and your character and individuality.

All things chain mail

Just had my weekly read of StyleBubble to find a post on Fannie Schiavoni. I shot a few pieces from her chain mail collection back in January, totally loved what she was doing, and so I'm pleased to see her getting noticed! Great when good things happen to good people and all that! Below is the story where I featured Fannie's chain mail glove, shot by Martin Dagucci. Izzy at Storm had the most incredible face for the story, and gotta love those Shu Umera Lace lashes!

Wimbledon's Classic Gentleman

For two weeks of the year all eyes are on Wimbledon, and it seems as much interest is provoked by the fashion as by the tennis. In 2006 Ralph Lauren was named the first designer in the history of The Championships to outfit all on-court officials, only adding to the luxury and classic style which defines both Polo Ralph Lauren and Wimbledon. The stars on court see their marketability soar from the right whites, and public support can grow from as little as that perfectly daring dress. The Williams sisters and Maria Sharapova are almost as well know now for their love of fashion as they for their tennis, and don't think the boys haven't worked this out too.

Yesterday Andy Murray revealed his Wimbledon 2009 look. Who would have thought the 'grumpy' anti-English star would be interested. But here we are, and Andy has teamed up to design his own outfit with Fred Perry, the classic British sports brand, and last British Champion at Wimbledon back in 1936. Is Andy trying to reconnect with the British public he ostracised a few years ago? By choosing this particular designer and it's classic look of a lost era Andy has re-branded himself as a British gentleman, and one who means business.
So I'm sure it is now with keen anticipation fans are waiting to see what Roger Federer can respond with this year. With his monogrammed blazers, logo sports kit, and this rather fetching cardi of 2008, he has successfully brought style back to the courts!

Graduate Fashion Week

With all the furore of Graduate Fashion Week I haven't yet had time to give my report, so late as it is, here we go. At the Brighton Uni Show there was a distinct wearability to the collections; sharp tailoring with floating feminine twists, structure balanced with soft colours and draped fabric, muted palettes with just a splash of considered colour, and gentle materials with a streak of experimental detail. Clean lines and simplicity really were the order of the day, apart from a few notable exceptions.

Jessica Watkins collection, 'Take me to the Prom. I dare you' stood out with a wholly different aesthetic. Inspired by the culture clash of America, the Norths preppy sport look and the deep Souths ragged plaid shirts, Watkins produced a Luella-esk girly show filled with romance and delicacy, oversized pom poms, and vintage sports equipment. Will be shooting some pieces from this collection in a few weeks so stand by for some pics!

Rasmus Rhode's collection, 'Motorcycle Diaries of Albrecht Durer', won the catwalk collection prize which was presented by Julien Macdonald. Here though, even the studs and slightly creepy skull caps didn't dominate from the successful tailoring of modern and edgy suits and gentlemans coats.

Holly Maloney won the portfolio prize, presented by Avsh Alom Gur. Inspired by architecture and structure her pieces really stood out in the knitted textiles category. Claire Pepper shot the collection, so visit her website for the amazing results.

Kyo Young Lee's collection, in a beautiful muted palette, showed tailored jackets, skirts and dresses with a feminine side. Gathered, ruffled and flowing silks and chiffon's, and statement embellishments. I would love to shoot this collection.

Big shoulders ruled the catwalk in Carys Baily's sheer sophistication and in Catherine Gerard's classical forms with armoured detailing. Hoping to shoot pieces from these collections too!

Pictures all to follow!

Miksa LookBook

Last week I styled the LookBook for designer Katie Weightman's ethical fashion label Miksa, with photographer Greg Funnell. The Spring Summer '10 collection is a fabulous mix of little flirty summer dresses, skirts and and playful girly prints, in a muted palette of cream, dove greys and blues.

Katie's ethical credentials are fundamental in her work, she uses organic cotton which is fair trade certified and the garments are made in a factory which adheres to strict fair trade working conditions. She uses vegetable dyes such as pomegranate, which cause minimum harm to the environment, or low impact dyes, which contain less water and chemicals than conventional dyes, and uses coconut, recycled and tagua nut buttons.

I wanted to keep the LookBook very simple and clean, no fuss in sight. Our model Jess had the perfect look with her scruffy hair and serene face, but that little hint of attitude! Katie was really keen we kept the look grown up, but the bow on the shoes and the floral jewellery I customised keep that uber feminine summer feel. I think this is the best Miksa collection yet, combining the feminine elegance of silk and draped jersey with little hippie crochet details. Below are my favourite pieces.