Military is a recurring trend which has reappeared every few seasons over the past decade. But for Spring/Summer 2010, it has not only dominated the shows, but has arrived in a new guise. Gone are the ornate embellishments of past seasons – epaulettes, buttons, braiding and gold, perhaps more a show of pomp and celebration – and instead it is now pared down in a minimalist array of khaki, olive and beige. This season, it is all about the Flak Jacket.
There is a style for everyone. Capture minimalist downtown cool with Alexander Wang. It’s strong and clean, but holds onto that rebellious, dressed down vibe so central to his aesthetic. Sportmax and Celine also show pared back, minimalist attitude; the 4-pocket olive Celine jacket a perfect piece of effortless chic, but with a little less youthful rebellion. Or go for draped sophistication at Max Mara - military for the grown-up. Rag and Bone, with British military at their roots, provide a perfect addition to the wardrobes of festival-goers. Aquascutum too seizes this back-to-basics youthful approach, with a focus on oversized army-surplus. Then see strong tailoring at Oscar de la Renta and Loewe. This is not ‘muddy fields’ military, but rather ‘ultimate luxury’ – fabrics are rich and thick, and delightfully bold. Marc Jacobs also showed a take on the chic tailored flak, choosing to belt them shut, adding a note of grown-up seriousness to the tiny ruffled skirts beneath. At Balmain, the flak fulfilled their sexy aesthetic, dressing down skin tight leather; military goes rock-chick. John Galliano embellished his with jewels and clusters of flowers made from film gel; military goes luxe.
Perhaps this new focus on the army-surplus basic is born out of our perpetual state of War. Or perhaps out of our unstable and uncertain economic times. An item, designed by the Wilkinson Sword company for RAF pilots in the Second World War as protection from bullets and flying shrapnel, seems the ideal form of body armour fitting for our modern times. We crave a tough, strong utilitarian statement in order to take control. Where the denim jacket, a previous attempt to steal the ‘outwear of the moment’ crown from the leather jacket, failed the flak might succeed. The breadth of possibility, shown by designers this season, far outreaches that of its denim counterpart. It is also a symbol of masculine power, and strength of attitude. However you choose to wear it, this message will not be lost.
There is a style for everyone. Capture minimalist downtown cool with Alexander Wang. It’s strong and clean, but holds onto that rebellious, dressed down vibe so central to his aesthetic. Sportmax and Celine also show pared back, minimalist attitude; the 4-pocket olive Celine jacket a perfect piece of effortless chic, but with a little less youthful rebellion. Or go for draped sophistication at Max Mara - military for the grown-up. Rag and Bone, with British military at their roots, provide a perfect addition to the wardrobes of festival-goers. Aquascutum too seizes this back-to-basics youthful approach, with a focus on oversized army-surplus. Then see strong tailoring at Oscar de la Renta and Loewe. This is not ‘muddy fields’ military, but rather ‘ultimate luxury’ – fabrics are rich and thick, and delightfully bold. Marc Jacobs also showed a take on the chic tailored flak, choosing to belt them shut, adding a note of grown-up seriousness to the tiny ruffled skirts beneath. At Balmain, the flak fulfilled their sexy aesthetic, dressing down skin tight leather; military goes rock-chick. John Galliano embellished his with jewels and clusters of flowers made from film gel; military goes luxe.
Perhaps this new focus on the army-surplus basic is born out of our perpetual state of War. Or perhaps out of our unstable and uncertain economic times. An item, designed by the Wilkinson Sword company for RAF pilots in the Second World War as protection from bullets and flying shrapnel, seems the ideal form of body armour fitting for our modern times. We crave a tough, strong utilitarian statement in order to take control. Where the denim jacket, a previous attempt to steal the ‘outwear of the moment’ crown from the leather jacket, failed the flak might succeed. The breadth of possibility, shown by designers this season, far outreaches that of its denim counterpart. It is also a symbol of masculine power, and strength of attitude. However you choose to wear it, this message will not be lost.
Rag and Bone SS10
MaxMara SS10
John Galliano SS10
Sportmax SS10
Alexander Wang SS10
Aquascutum SS10
Oscar de la Renta SS10
Loewe SS10
Celine SS10
Balmain SS10
Marc Jacobs SS10
All images from Style.com
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