The trench coat emerged from the battle fields of the First World War, and has endured a transformation across the last century. Years have passed, but still it has not reached a final state. When in 1914, Thomas Burberry was commissioned by the War Office to design a more practical coat to replace the heavy greatcoat, he would probably not have believed what we would see a century later. For what was a practical and necessary waterproof garment, made from the newly patented Gabardine fabric, to protect soldiers in the field, is now a mainstay of fashion, and finds itself as a classic icon of style.
Over the last century the trench has encapsulated many movements. It has been elegance and sophistication; think Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany's or Humphrey Bogart's Rick Blaine from Casablanca, who wore the Aquascutum ‘Kingsway’. But it has too been rebellion; worn in the sixties by the Mod, in the late seventies by the Punks, and then rediscovered as a feature of heavy metal and Goth fashion trends. In the eighties it was the uniform of any power dressing woman, wearing them outsized in a sign of masculinity.
And now, the trench coat is having a new fashion moment. Burberry returned to the iconic coat for his Spring/Summer 2010 Collection and Christopher Bailey proved how relevant it still is to modern fashion. It appeared shining, encrusted and sparking, in gold and silver. The palette of nude and beige, with a hint of pastels, spot on for the season. They were feminine, with tulle draping and rouched shoulders, but still carried the classic chic of the past. The trench, and Burberry, is back, in a blaze of metallic confetti.
Bailey wasn’t alone, as reworked trench coats appeared at Spring/Summer 2010 shows from Philip Lim to Marc by Marc Jacobs. They were cropped at Dries Van Noten; full length at Aquascutum. Sleeveless at Celine, turned into a dress at Sportmax. They were the epitome of luxury at Loewe, belted shut and cinched at Oscar de La Renta, and oversized and open at Charles Anastase.
This season, it seems everyone has had a say on the trench coat. It may be a classic staple, but there is nothing simple about how it has been treated this season. However you choose to wear it, the trench coat is here to stay.
Over the last century the trench has encapsulated many movements. It has been elegance and sophistication; think Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany's or Humphrey Bogart's Rick Blaine from Casablanca, who wore the Aquascutum ‘Kingsway’. But it has too been rebellion; worn in the sixties by the Mod, in the late seventies by the Punks, and then rediscovered as a feature of heavy metal and Goth fashion trends. In the eighties it was the uniform of any power dressing woman, wearing them outsized in a sign of masculinity.
And now, the trench coat is having a new fashion moment. Burberry returned to the iconic coat for his Spring/Summer 2010 Collection and Christopher Bailey proved how relevant it still is to modern fashion. It appeared shining, encrusted and sparking, in gold and silver. The palette of nude and beige, with a hint of pastels, spot on for the season. They were feminine, with tulle draping and rouched shoulders, but still carried the classic chic of the past. The trench, and Burberry, is back, in a blaze of metallic confetti.
Bailey wasn’t alone, as reworked trench coats appeared at Spring/Summer 2010 shows from Philip Lim to Marc by Marc Jacobs. They were cropped at Dries Van Noten; full length at Aquascutum. Sleeveless at Celine, turned into a dress at Sportmax. They were the epitome of luxury at Loewe, belted shut and cinched at Oscar de La Renta, and oversized and open at Charles Anastase.
This season, it seems everyone has had a say on the trench coat. It may be a classic staple, but there is nothing simple about how it has been treated this season. However you choose to wear it, the trench coat is here to stay.
Mario Testino
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