Floral Fancy

Classic English florals: imaginings of the countryside, 60s hippie movement, innocence and childhood. No matter how one wears them, there is a certain unmistakable British charm. My barbies discarded their sparkling bikinis and neon sportswear in favour of tiny floral dresses, cropped jackets and flared skirts with little ribbon ties lovingly made by my mother. My christmas angel wears her pink and white flowered dress from an off cut of Liberty Fabric year in year out - and yes she really does look angelic. And now this summer fashion has gone wild for the 'Liberty Fabric' which is set to take over the world.

Liberty was founded by Arthur Liberty in 1875. He built it's reputation through innovative and trend-setting stock; imported antiques from the Near and Far East, arms and armour from Japan and China, and exhibitions of embroideries from across the world. Now, Liberty is both innovatively moving forward and looking back, paying tribute. A Retrospective Liberty Exhibition opens to celebrate the iconic fabric prints. A collaboration with Central Saint Martins students is set to reinterpret the archive of prints. Luella and Gap have produced collections based on the fabrics in the archives. For the second year running Nike have designed Liberty print Dunks and Blazers. Paris fashion house APC have launched a new Liberty Fabric collection; 1960s boho with 'a large dash of Soho summer'. 'APC’s John Touitou believes that ‘floral print fabrics are a totem for the 1960s’; in keeping with this feeling he has designed the collection to be authentically boho – nostalgia updated – to reflect the re-emergence of the Liberty Print.' Liberty of London’s Sloane Street boutique in celebration invited a special Cacharel collection to sit alongside the brand’s own, comprising a capsule selection of pieces reworked in their original 1970s Liberty print. The Kate Moss for Topshop capsule collection draws inspiration from Liberty’s fabric archives to create flirty summer dresses, perfect for the festival season. Papa d’Anjo also launched at Liberty in March with a range of childrenswear, all in Liberty print. This summer Liberty sums up 'British Cool'.

A few weeks ago I embarked on an exploration of floral print; the eccentric british look being central to my work. Below are some pictures from my first floral shoot. Here I've explored classic innocent florals; their softness and feminity. I was inspired by vintage pieces, the APC line Madras, and of course Liberty. The Topshop Liberty print shorts, and the Carcharel Liberty print visor were starting points for this story . Next week I'm going urban, with 1960s anti-war protests and student rebellion. I am set to discover how florals fit into our distinctly British look and culture.




Pictures by Claire Pepper 2009

Rags or Riches? charity shops revived

Along with my love of ethical fashion you may have also noticed my love of all things vintage and charity. It all seems to have become all the more relevant for the times we find ourselves in; as Mary Portas states, a financial and environmental crisis like nothing we've seen before. So imagine my joy to find both of my treasures, ethical and charity, at the centre of a shift in shopping and the culture of fashion as a whole. (Admittedly I say all this regardless of the news of endless queues at Gucci on the opening day of the Selfridges summer sale, but I can't ask for everything to change at once now can I!)

Oxfam is in the midst of another overhaul - this one I feel more fitting than the upmarket Westbourne Grove shop of their last attempt - and stylist and designer Mrs Jones, AKA Fee Doran, is taking the reins. She's been customising the stock, turning whatever she can find upside down and inside out, producing pieces to buy in the re-styled Camden shop and online. This cumulated in a shop launch and runway show to preview her collection, followed up with workshops teaching participants to pull outfits together and customise clothes. The final twist is the Festival DIY tent, which kicks off at Glastonbury, to which I lent a helping hand last week.
Not only does this project ask us to give back to charity, an area which means so much to so many, but it also aims to improve us through teaching long lost skills and asking us to embrace our own creativity and talents. Fashion in its rawest form.

Along with Oxfam’s revival, which is well worth a visit, a lot of other charity shops are getting it right. Cast your minds back to one of my earliest posts on the re-launch of the Age Concern shop in Oxford – a stylists dream. And I’ve maybe mentioned before too, the British Red Cross on Old Church Street where there is rail upon rail of once worn designer pieces. Ben de Lisi regularly donates, but due to the affluence of the surrounding area on my last trip I also found Stella McCartney, Ralph Lauren, nearly new Manolo Blahnik, Nicole Farhi, and the list goes on, at bargain prices. You won’t find yourself trawling through crowded piles of used and unloved garments, as insiders - stylist, designers, fashion writers, musicians - have already discovered. The shop looks like any other on the high street.

At the same time Mary Portas Queen of Shops returned to our screens with a new series
Mary Queen of Charity Shops where she aimed to change the image of charity shopping. She’s also opened her very own charity shop in the Westfield Village, supported by Grazia, to raise the profile of charity shopping. Mary's Charity Shop has been a huge success, with celebrity endorsements and donations from numbers of high end designers and celebrities. She spotted this shift from, as she names it, 'greed to giving' which was happening at the same time as this economic meltdown. The it-bag, in-skirt, fashion media led 'must have this' and 'buy that now' attitude seems to have lost its momentum. With style icons shifting to Alexa or Peaches, with their individual style or Michelle Obama, with all her integrity and commitment to raising the profiles of young American designers, there really does seem to be movement towards a shift in our attitudes. In some circles of life many do still have the money to spend on high fashion, this will never change, but even Vogue ran a 'More Dash than Cash' high street editorial in their last edition, filled with customised pieces and unique character. But it's not just the financial question, the giving to charity, or recycling rather than filling landfills, but also a question of individuality and personal style. (An issue I feel pretty strongly about; I discuss in my first column for the City Butler Magazine, and also posted here back in May, Fashion as Identity and Knowing your Fashion Identity.)

So who are these initiatives aimed at? In the most recent Ageless Style issue of Vogue, fashion features writer Sarah Harris discusses the wonders and advantages of going vintage in her article Beyond Retro, but highlights the assumption that vintage isn't for women over 40. Vintage and charity might be fine for the young fashion brave, but does it really have a role in the wardrobes of all ages? Well as always, not every trend is for every figure and the same stands here: find an era that suits, for example 50's can only be flattering for the older or curvier woman. Or costume jewellery, hats and silk scarves are always an individual twist to an outfit, but mean you don't need to take the look head to toe.

So when wearing your nearly-new £60 Manolo Blahniks, and you’ve not only pleased your bank balance, had the act of buying from charity ease your soul, relished in your contribution to ethical fashion issues and the environment, you can also have said something about yourself and your character and individuality.

All things chain mail

Just had my weekly read of StyleBubble to find a post on Fannie Schiavoni. I shot a few pieces from her chain mail collection back in January, totally loved what she was doing, and so I'm pleased to see her getting noticed! Great when good things happen to good people and all that! Below is the story where I featured Fannie's chain mail glove, shot by Martin Dagucci. Izzy at Storm had the most incredible face for the story, and gotta love those Shu Umera Lace lashes!

Wimbledon's Classic Gentleman

For two weeks of the year all eyes are on Wimbledon, and it seems as much interest is provoked by the fashion as by the tennis. In 2006 Ralph Lauren was named the first designer in the history of The Championships to outfit all on-court officials, only adding to the luxury and classic style which defines both Polo Ralph Lauren and Wimbledon. The stars on court see their marketability soar from the right whites, and public support can grow from as little as that perfectly daring dress. The Williams sisters and Maria Sharapova are almost as well know now for their love of fashion as they for their tennis, and don't think the boys haven't worked this out too.

Yesterday Andy Murray revealed his Wimbledon 2009 look. Who would have thought the 'grumpy' anti-English star would be interested. But here we are, and Andy has teamed up to design his own outfit with Fred Perry, the classic British sports brand, and last British Champion at Wimbledon back in 1936. Is Andy trying to reconnect with the British public he ostracised a few years ago? By choosing this particular designer and it's classic look of a lost era Andy has re-branded himself as a British gentleman, and one who means business.
So I'm sure it is now with keen anticipation fans are waiting to see what Roger Federer can respond with this year. With his monogrammed blazers, logo sports kit, and this rather fetching cardi of 2008, he has successfully brought style back to the courts!

Graduate Fashion Week

With all the furore of Graduate Fashion Week I haven't yet had time to give my report, so late as it is, here we go. At the Brighton Uni Show there was a distinct wearability to the collections; sharp tailoring with floating feminine twists, structure balanced with soft colours and draped fabric, muted palettes with just a splash of considered colour, and gentle materials with a streak of experimental detail. Clean lines and simplicity really were the order of the day, apart from a few notable exceptions.

Jessica Watkins collection, 'Take me to the Prom. I dare you' stood out with a wholly different aesthetic. Inspired by the culture clash of America, the Norths preppy sport look and the deep Souths ragged plaid shirts, Watkins produced a Luella-esk girly show filled with romance and delicacy, oversized pom poms, and vintage sports equipment. Will be shooting some pieces from this collection in a few weeks so stand by for some pics!

Rasmus Rhode's collection, 'Motorcycle Diaries of Albrecht Durer', won the catwalk collection prize which was presented by Julien Macdonald. Here though, even the studs and slightly creepy skull caps didn't dominate from the successful tailoring of modern and edgy suits and gentlemans coats.

Holly Maloney won the portfolio prize, presented by Avsh Alom Gur. Inspired by architecture and structure her pieces really stood out in the knitted textiles category. Claire Pepper shot the collection, so visit her website for the amazing results.

Kyo Young Lee's collection, in a beautiful muted palette, showed tailored jackets, skirts and dresses with a feminine side. Gathered, ruffled and flowing silks and chiffon's, and statement embellishments. I would love to shoot this collection.

Big shoulders ruled the catwalk in Carys Baily's sheer sophistication and in Catherine Gerard's classical forms with armoured detailing. Hoping to shoot pieces from these collections too!

Pictures all to follow!

Miksa LookBook

Last week I styled the LookBook for designer Katie Weightman's ethical fashion label Miksa, with photographer Greg Funnell. The Spring Summer '10 collection is a fabulous mix of little flirty summer dresses, skirts and and playful girly prints, in a muted palette of cream, dove greys and blues.

Katie's ethical credentials are fundamental in her work, she uses organic cotton which is fair trade certified and the garments are made in a factory which adheres to strict fair trade working conditions. She uses vegetable dyes such as pomegranate, which cause minimum harm to the environment, or low impact dyes, which contain less water and chemicals than conventional dyes, and uses coconut, recycled and tagua nut buttons.

I wanted to keep the LookBook very simple and clean, no fuss in sight. Our model Jess had the perfect look with her scruffy hair and serene face, but that little hint of attitude! Katie was really keen we kept the look grown up, but the bow on the shoes and the floral jewellery I customised keep that uber feminine summer feel. I think this is the best Miksa collection yet, combining the feminine elegance of silk and draped jersey with little hippie crochet details. Below are my favourite pieces.

A Vintage Epic

So I've been talking about this shoot for a while now but here are some of the final images; see my website for the full story. The first thing you might notice is the crimping which I shall defend before you can say a thing! Now, the photog was terrified of it (of course coming round to it as soon as she saw the first look) with thoughts of the 80's screaming through her head. But I think it makes all the difference: it's both soft and feminine yet still surprising and eccentric. Simply curling and back-combing really wouldn't have created the same textures, and would have been too soft and girly next to the vintage dresses. However as a word of advice, I would suggest leaving it for those with long hair after a rather horrible result on my own short hair!

On our first day of shooting our model was Remia at Select, who was, at only 15, just amazing. She has one of the most striking faces I've seen, and really pulled off the British Eccentricity of the shoot. I totally love her in this red dress, an original 1950's number from Vintage Vanity, with the flash of studds and the Guccia at Larizia heels.



Latitaie is a gorgeous new face at Oxygen who shot the second day of our story. I particularly love the amazing straw boater hat I managed to find in the British Red Cross shop just off the Kings Road. It's one of the best charity shops I've been to recently with a whole rack of Ben de Lisi, Stella McCartney, Nicole Farhi among many other labels. But that day the only thing for me was the boater which looks fabulous on Latitaie with the maribu stork. Then as promised is the image of the printed leggings, which had a whole post devoted to them last week!

Diamonds, pearls and precious stones

My last shoot focused on vintage dresses which really needed toughening up and modernising. Just a few strong, statement pieces of jewellery was all it took. There are so many wonderful designers really pushing the boundaries, but here are just a few that I find particularly exciting.

Solange Azagury-Partridge, who describes her jewellery as 'talismanic ornaments layered with cultural depths...designs poised between pop art and ancient mysticism, irreverent and iconoclastic.' I would think she is best known for this Lips ring, but her other work is also inspirational. She puts this down to the fact she is self taught, so therefore has no preconceptions and can bend almost all the rules to achieve her single vision.

Rachel Galley, a Central Saint Martins graduate in 2004, is another of my favourites. Rachel says she 'draws her inspiration from intricate carved wood, bronze historic treasures, architecture, engineering, natural textures and objects found in our daily lives. She adds her own innovative twist with hidden compartments or containers, enabling the wearer to interact with their jewellery and adds bespoke, handmade fittings and clasps to give each piece her own signature finish.' Her work pleases me in a different way, it's intricate and personal, classic and elegant without failing to excite and remain modern and relevant. My favourite pieces are from the Memento Pillow collection.

Nathalie Melville, another Central Saint Martins 2004 graduate launched commission based fine jewellery brand in 2006. I've been lucky enough to know Nathalie, and to shoot her pieces a number of times. Her work is intricate and delicate, the pieces move with your body and are therefore a joy to wear. Her lace effect work, which is predominant in her collections, is beautiful, but her newest collection, Kensington Gardens, is moving forward from this. I can't just have one favourite so here are 3.
Alexis Bittar's first collections were inspired by 1920's depression era glass and by the Bakelite jewellery of the 1930's to create hand sculpted Lucite jewellery. His work is very sculptural and filled with statement pieces. Maybe each and every one of these designers deserves a full post to themselves in the future.

Fashion as Identity

Fashion is so often denounced as fad, a splurge of money, whimsical fancy reserved for the vain and egocentric. But would Madonna have had the same success without her changing and evolving style and image? Would the PM be taken seriously if he turned up in a purple suit – no matter how expensive, sleek and tailored? Would Kate Moss have stood the test of time if she had left it all to beauty? And would Michelle Obama be hailed an icon of our time if it were not for her personal style?

In rather simple terms these decisions we make, every day of our lives, tell the outside world who we are, who we want to be and what we want to achieve. It can change you and promote you. We change ourselves for our environment – friends or family, work or the opera, the shops or a drinks party – and every time we change it’s because not only do we want to be accepted through how we look, but because we want to say something about ourselves.

But is fashion really only about external appearance? A superficial layer behind which we hide? Or does it go much deeper, to the very core of our identity, which shapes who we are? Can it nurture your soul and give you personal confidence for whatever circumstance you find yourself in?

Listening to Radio 4 I heard a thought provoking interview with Catherine W Hill, a Holocaust survivor. She described the removal of their own clothes and possessions on arrival at Aushwitz as the stripping of their identity. Loosing their external identity in essence took away their internal identity. She recounted how women would tear off a strip of their prison uniforms to create accessories, scarves and bows for their hair. This was an act of resistance, an act of reclaiming individual identity, personality and self-respect. An act of survival.

So is fashion really just about spoilt women, exquisite clothes, huge amounts of money and superficial vanity? The example from Auschwitz tells us all we need to know, I feel. Fashion is a deeply personal, deeply meaningful and even existential feature of our lives. It is an intrinsic part of identity.

Cecelia de Lisle

Sunday brought another vintage fair; piles of vintage Chanel, Jaeger and Gerard Darel, all rather out of my price range however. But there was also a collection of hats, like nothing I have ever seen before and the most beautiful selection of vintage wedding dresses – all antique silk, lace and beading! The fairs regularly travel round the country, so I’ll keep you all posted on the next events.

My new vintage Dolce and Gabbana style jacket also got its first outing – I think it was received well! I went to see my best friend and singing sensation Cecelia de Lisle perform a set. She’s such an amazing talent, her first album is out now – I think on Itunes but I’m not good with these sorts of technological matters - and she’s also totally beautiful. We work together a lot, and here are some photos from a shoot I styled for her a little while ago.